[exhibits page] [Artemis Moonbase Storyboard] [Making Moonscapes and Marscapes]
An EZ-make 1:50 scale Artemis Moonbase Model for your diorama
PHOTOS of completed Moonbase Model on diorama
- Artemis Moonbase Exhibit
- Front view of Model - Note fidelity to Moonbase as depicted in poster in background
- Open end view of Model - Note the inside hatch of the EVA/Docking module
- Exhibit at an outreach event with exhibit maker, Peter Kokh
By Peter Kokh, Moon Society Milwaukee Outpost
Below you will find parts list and instructions to make an Artemis Moonbase Model of the size appropriate for your Artemis Moonbase Storyboard.
You can pick from two levels of difficulty. The Simpler, Easier Model requires less parts, less skill, less effort, less time. The More Challenging Model will, of course, also prove the most rewarding. It will take more care, more patience, and greater expense for extra parts.
If you are unsure of your abilities, you might want to put together the easier one first. This will allow you to begin using your display should an outreach opportunity arise. Then, at leisure, after accummulating and preparing the extra parts, you can attempt the more challenging model.
Simpler, Easier Model More Challenging Model Descent Engine Complex The Space Motorcycle Ascent Vehicle
Simpler, Easier Artemis Moonbase Model.
This will be a low-fidelity model, with just enough detail to catch the eye of the passerby and direct it to the poster and other images and text on your display board. Overall shape and color will do the trick. After all, we don't really know the details! The Moonbase structure is still on our drawing boards.
In the interests of easy replication, we looked for a readily available lightweight hollow all cardboard cylindrical container as a starting point. A 3 1/4" diameter container would give us a 1:50 scale.
A common table salt carton. 3 5/16" x 5 1/2" This container has three advantages:
- You can empty out (and save) the contents without taking off one of the ends. May we suggest starting with a fresh container, making a hole in the middle of one side, and pouring out the salt from there, leaving the paper seal intact over the metal pour spout so that you do not have to disguise this area later.
- It is all cardboard, easy to cut with an Exacto knife or sharp utility knife.
- The diameter to length proportions are close enough to the blueprint proportions (though the artist's rendering on the poster is definitely longer relative to diameter.)
Creating the basic shape:First mark your cuts - draw a line across the middle of one end, through the still paper-taped metal pour tab. Then measure a point 1/2 " in from one end (end furthest from the pour tab.) Now draw a perpendicular line through this point. Refer to the illustration of the SpaceHab dimensions. This line marks the flat edge. Note where it intersects the rim on each side and make a mark.
Now stand the container on the marked end. Using a square, mark a line on the side of the carton from each of the two points along the rim that you had marked. Now you can join the marks at the other end for your last cut edge. It may help to set your container in a corner to immobilize it so that you can mark accurately.
Now cut along the lines. Clean up any ragged edges with a sharp blade or fine sand paper.
The paper label will probably peel off. You can discard it, and gently scrape away any residual glue from the paper label seams. If you want to avoid that problem, resecure the loose edges of the paper label with doublestick tape.
Making the flat side of the Moonbase moduleLook for a piece of heavy cardboard, thin (1/8" to 3/16") foam core, or thin corrugated cardboard. If you are working with simple cardboard, you can cut it so that it just fits flush over the outside edges of your cutaway carton.
If you are working with foam core or corrugated cardboard, you are going to want to cut it to fit between the two flat ends, and on a bias along the top and bottom edges, with two (temporary) finger holes in front, so that you can slip it into the opening of the carton, and fingers in the finger holes, draw it back up snug with the upper and lower curve wall sections. When you have a good fit, remove the piece, glue all the edges, and put it in, draw it back in position. Leave your assembly undisturbed until the adhesive is thoroughly dry. Meanwhile, you will work on the platform.
The next day, when the above assembly is dry enough to handle safely, you can choose (or not) to add two curved ribs where the three individual SpaceHab modules are joined. First mark with pencil the appropriate locations. Then take two plastic ties used by electricians to tie cables and wires, cut them to length, and glue them in place. A few small dabs from a glue gun should work. These ribs will provide that extra detail, and complement the "built-in" ribs provided by the ends of the salt carton.
Making the platformThe moonbase rests on a platform with adjustable legs. The platform is longer than the moonbase extending to one side where it is hinged to the descent engine assembly. It is via this attached platform that the moonbase is lowered from its vertical position in transit to a horizontal one for deployment on the lunar surface.
An "easy enough, good enough" platform can be made from the bottom of almost any plastic 4 gallon milk crate. These are not hard to be find. Many people use them for storage, turned on their sides as bookshelves, or, bottom cut out and nailed to a telephone pole, as a make-do basketball hoop. You should be able to find a discarded one for free. It won't matter if the grid pattern on the bottom of the crate runs criss-cross or diagonally. Nor does the spacing matter. With a jig saw and a fine tooth blade, cut as indicated.
The platform will be made from the portion indicated in red. The moonbase will sit on top of the rack all the way up to the end with the pair of outriggers. Hold your moonbase against the rack to see what crosspieces will need to be reshaped convexly to cradle the moonbase properly. You can carve out the needed curve with a sharp utility knife (one with snap off blades works fine.) Check the shape of each rib against the salt carton curve. When you are done with this operation you can spray paint your rack gray, hammered metal, or black, as you choose.
Using a 1/16" diameter drill bit, drill part way into the bottom of each alternate joint in the pattern indicated below. Get some brass upholstery tacks (not carpet tacks) and insert them. These "feet" with pads can be inserted so as to be apparently shorter or longer according to the degree of unevenness of the terrain on which your model will rest. In the illustration, the green cross members are the ones that have been shaped convexly in order to cradle the curvature of the moonbase per illustration above. The two outrigger feet are longer and protrude above the rack into an hydraulic cylinder. See blue arrow and Artemis poster for guidance. You may choose to ignore the hydraulic cylinder detail.
(If you are using the Bread Crumb Canister instead of the Salt Carton, return to your next step)
Finishing the Moonbase StructureA spray painted finish for the ends and curved exterior. Carefully mask off the flat front side (the blue easy release painters tape is far superior to the old beige masking tape!) Then spray the container with a spray primer. If you rest the container so that its flat masked side is resting on a block, you can spary the whole thing in one operation. If you put a pair of nails or screws on top of the block, spaced to fit in the finger holes of the flat side, your moonbase container won't get "sprayed away."
If you choose a gray primer, a couple of coats may be enough. A dressier option would be to use a couple of coats of Rustoleum Hammered Metalic spray finish. Your cardboard moonbase now looks like it is indeed made of metal.
Finishing the front flat side. As soon as your finish coat on the ends and curved sections of your salt carton moonbse are dry, remove the blue masking tape protecting the flat side. It is important not to leave the tape on longer than necessary! Now print out the [72 dpi] front panel below on heavyweight photo paper (in B/W, grayscale, or color). Cut the panel out and see how it fits. If it is too large, you can trim it with your scissors. If it is too small, paste it into your paint program, where you can adjust for size, printing from there. When your panel fits perfectly, apply spray adhesive to the back and carefully put it in place. This panel will cover the two finger holes you may have used to put the front board in place.
Using a hot glue gun or other adhesive, line up your finished moonbase on the platform, making sure the flat side is plumb. And you are done!
Note: For this simple model, we did not add the EVA hatch/docking adaptor module on one end. We will do that on the more challenging model.
A more challenging, more detailed Artemis Moonbase Model
This will be a model with greater fidelity to the artist's depiction in the Artemis Poster which is your backdrop. (Comparison Photo) The greater detail will better establish the connection to the poster and accompanying images and text., with just enough detail to catch the eye of the passerby and direct it to the poster and other images and text on your display board. Overall shape and color will do the trick. After all, we don't really know the details! The Moonbase structure is still on our drawing boards.
For the basic structure, we again looked for a readily available lightweight, cardboard cylindrical container as a starting point, again trying to find a 3 1/4" diameter container that would give us a 1:50 scale. But this time we had two extra design constraints.
- We wanted a container that was somewhat longer relative to its diameter, than the salt carton used for the simple model. Even though the proportion of the salt carton are about right, we wanted to better match the image of the poster artist who has exaggerated the length of the triple SpaceHab unit. Connection with the poster is our goal. After all, we are still at the drawing board stage.
- We wanted metal ends.
A 15 oz. bread crumbs canister was our find. This container has these advantages:
- The walls of the canister are cardboard and can easily be cut with an Exacto knife or sharp utility knife.
- You can remove the foil seal from one end and empty out the container (saving the contents), ending up with one intact metal end and one "cutaway" metal-edged end through which one can peer inside, This gives you the opportunity to add inside details
- The length is a bit generous given the dimensions, but provides a much better match to the artist's vision as portrayed in the Artemis Poster. As we want the passerby to make the connection from model to poster, this length is ideal.
- Cutting the metal ends requires special tools and/or careful, patient work. The diamond edge table top tile saw we had worked like a charm. But this is not a common tool. If you use a hack saw, use the finest blade (highest tooth count) you can find, and work slowly. A fine tooth craft saw, available from craft shops, would be a better choice. If this one requirement proves to be a showstopper for you, we can ship you a precut canister on request.
Creating the basic shape:First mark your cuts - draw a line across the middle of one end. Then measure a point 1/2 " in from one end. Now draw a perpendicular line through this point. Refer to the illustration of the SpaceHab dimensions. This line marks the flat edge. Note where it intersects the rim on each side and make a mark.
Now stand the container on the marked end. Using a square, mark a line on the side of the canister from each of the two points along the rim that you had marked. Now you can join the marks at the other end for your last cut edge. It may help to set your container in a corner to immobilize it so that you can mark accurately.
Now cut along the lines, using the appropriate tools. Clean any ragged edges, using a fine metal file for the metal edges, and a sharp knife or piece of fine sandpaper for the cardboard edges. We will be covering these edges, so you don't have to be perfect.
Making the flat side of the Moonbase moduleFor this panel, it is preferable to use a piece of thin (1/8" to 3/16") foam core or thin corrugated cardboard. You want to cut it to fit between the two flat ends, and on a bias along the top and bottom edges, so that you can slip it into the opening of the canister and draw it back up snug towards the edges of the upper and lower curve wall sections. When you have a good fit, remove the piece and set it aside. We have work to do on the inside of the moonbase structure, and on the flat panel itself, before attaching it to our structure.
Making the platform - follow the instructions for the Salt Carton (simpler) Moonbase structure above.
Finishing the Canister Interior and Exterior prior to installing the flat wallTaking advantage of the one open end, we are going to add some interior detail.
1. Assembling the inner airlock hatch. We are going to use this hole to attach the inner air lock hatch. You will need the following pieces for this:
- a 3/8" outside diameter threaded nipple. You can get a packet of these nipples in assorted lengths (1/2" to 2") [e.g. Angelo brand part #70150] in the lamp parts section of your hardware store or home center.
- In the PVC plumbing parts section, chose a 1" (inner diameter) threaded nut, or slip plug, with octagon shaped head. All we need is the head, so remove the entire threaded (or slip) section with a hack saw, cleaning up with a sharp utility knife. Find the center of the remaining 8-sided disk and mark it with a punch or nail. Then drill through the nut with a 3/8" metal bit, cleaning up the edges. You may have to use to wiggle the bit around a little until you can thread the steel nipple through it . This piece will be the airlock flange. Spray paint it gray or metallic hammered finish from Rustoleum, and let dry before assembly.
- a "lockup kit" with a 1 1/4" decorative "check ring" and cap nut for glass shade ceiling fixtures. [We will use 3 of these altogether. Find these in your hardware or home center lamp parts section for about $3 each. They come in brass or chrome finish - suit your taste.] Choose one with a cap nut that does not have a hole (for a pull chain) but has a solid conical head [e.g. Angelo brand part #70638.] Be sure to buy three regular nuts for these nipples as well.
note: not to scale of piece above
2. Installing the inner airlock hatch.
- With a pencil, mark the center of the inside end cap. Make a dimple here with a nail or punch, supporting the canister on a piece of wood. Then, using a 3/8" metal drill bit, drill a hole through the metal end of the canister. File the edges until you can thread your nipple through the hole.
- Working from the outside of the canister, thread the pipe nipple through the hole, through the airlock flange, through the decorative check ring, into the conical cap nut. Twist assembly until it is snug up against the inside edge of the canister metal cap, making sure that one of the flat edges of the painted PVC flange nut is parallel to the flat edge of the cutaway canister.
- Secure on the outside with a nut. You can use a little adhesive on the inside edge of the PVC flange nut if you want, but just a little. You don't want it oozing out the side.
3. Print out the interior curve wall panel - ppr_is_curvewall .pdf - use heavyweight matte finish photo paper
- Cut and make sure it will fit between the metal end caps of the canister.
- Lay it inside the canister starting just back of the opening upper edge. You will not need any adhesive. If it is cut snug, it will just stay in place.
- You needn't worry about it not reaching all the way to the lower edge - a floor panel will cover this area.
Red marks location of interior curve wall panel. Location of inner hatch assembly is shown along with future front wall and floor
4. Print out the exterior curve wall sheet - ppr_os_curvewall.pdf- use heavyweight matte finish photo paper
- Cut and make sure it will fit between the edges of the metal end caps and that it is long enough for the top and bottom edges to be folded over the cut cardboard edges of the cylinder. Note, orient this panel so that the black area forms the underside of the moonbase module. Set aside.
- Place a long strip of double stick tape near the top front and bottom front edges of the cardboard canister. Now apply the curve wall sheet, leaving enough excess to fold over as in the practice run.
- Attach strips of double stick tape to the underside of the wall sheet then fold over.
Blue marks location of outer curve wall panel with black portion at the bottom.
- It is a good idea to apply a protective spray clear coat to the paper exterior curve wall at this time. Photo paper (even glossy) is porous and soils easily.
5. Making the front flat wall.
- Ideal for this is a 3/16" thick piece of foam core board. You need to make precision cuts, so use a flat steel square and a fresh razor blade or very sharp knife. Measure the size of the front wall opening and cut a piece 3/4 of an inch higher and a 1/4 inch wider than the inner opening size. You can pare off more, but you can't add.
- Hold the square parallel to one long edge, and holding the blade on a 45° angle, make a straight bias cut. Using the square, cut one short edge without a slant, but perfectly square to the top edge.
- Take the piece and slide it into the open module and mark where you have to cut the opposite short edge (on a square) so that the piece will fit inside the metal rim, just.
- Then cut the lower long edge on a 45° inward bias, cutting off as little as possible the first pass. Insert the wall inside the canister and bring the top edge towards the front. If the bottom edge does not come to the front, i.e. the piece is too tall, pare some more, until you have a good fit. It is okay for the curve wall to lip over the front flat panel a bit both on top and bottom. This helps finish it off. Remove the flat wall and set aside.
6. Finishing and installing the front flat wall.
- Print the interior and exterior flat wall panels (both on same sheet) - ppr_is_os_flatwall.pdf
- Cut the panels out and test fit. Trim as needed. If either panel is too small in any direction, use your Adobe Reader image tool to copy the image from the pdf page, paste it into your paint program, and make any needed adjustments.
- A word about the interior flat wall panel. Instead of just a metal surface, why not have a mural? Instead of a mural showing the "Green Hills of Earth" or some beach scene, why not a mural which shows how the infant outpost will / could look a decade into the future? That will provide maximum motivation. This scene is taken from a NASDA painting and adjusted for color, contrast, and panelization by myself.
- Now put some adhesive or glue on the upper and lower bias-cut edges and on the right hand straight edge that abuts the canister end. Carefully place the finished panel in location. It will attach to the folded over edges of the exterior curve panel sheet. Place the assembly on the flat side and let dry (overnight if need be.)
7. Making, finishing, and installing the floor
- Ideal for this is a 3/16" thick piece of foam core board. You need to make precision cuts, so use a flat steel square and a fresh razor blade or very sharp knife. Measure the size of the front wall piece and make the floor the same length. Cut one long edge on a very sharp bias as the floor will meet the slope wall near the bottom of the curve.
- Estimate the width of the floor and cut a little wider. It is always easier to cut more off, you can't glue more back on.When the floor sits flat inside the canister, and is perpendicular to the front wall, it is the right size. Paint the exposed edge at the canister opening with gray paint.
- Then print the floor panel - ppr_floor.pdf - Cut this panel and lining up the right and back edges, trim any excess. Then remove the printed panel, spray the back with adhesive and carefully attach. If you want, you can save any triming until after you have attached the print panel to the floor board, in case your alignment is off a bit.
- Now dab some adhesive on the bias cut long edge where it will meet the curved wall, and the front straight cut edge where it will meet the front wall.
8. Your moonbase module (sans airlock module) is completed. We chose not to add any interior furnishings becaue these are yet to be determined.
I am contemplating adding bunk beds along the curve wall near the open end. Why? Because the first Artemis Moonbase crew will be the first humans ever to sleep on the Moon in a bed. And they will be the first humans able to walk on the Moon without space suits (inside their cabin, of course.) The floor of the equipment-crammed Apollo cabin was barely big enough to take one step in any direction before coming up against a wall or obstacle.
Modeling the Airlock & Expansion Module - Look at the moonbase sitting on the Moon in the Artemis poster. There is a "T" shaped module added to one side. This is similar to the docking module nodes of the Space Station. There is an airlock for surface excursions on a "T" to the moonbase. And at the far end of the module is a docking adapter. When the moonbase is expanded, new pressurized structures will be attached here. Finding off-the-shelf pieces out of which to fashion a resemblance to the illustration, is a challenge in serendipity. This module had (4) basic components that you may want to try to represent:Connecting collar (gray), T-shaped module (black outline), EVA Hatch (red), expansion docking adapter (green)
It is worth adding this module to your moonbase model because it allows you these talking points:
- Arriving crew vehicles can taxi up to the docking port, so that personnel can come and go from one pressurized environment to another without donning a space suit (as in Shuttle<>Space Station transfers.
- The moonbase will grow with succeeding missions, by attaching expansion modules to the docking connector (and using a new EVA / docking module for EVA and transfers)
- Not only will Artemis Moonbase be the first habitable structure to remain permanently on the Moon, it will be expandable. Additional pressurized space can be another triple SpaceHab unit or something quite different, like an inflatable structure.
- Note: The artist adds a ladder, but does not add a support foot for this heavy module. It is unreasonable to support this mass by canteleverage alone. Our moonbase model will need a foot under the end of this module.
You may wish to go on your own scavenger hunt and may come up with a different combination of components. These are the off-the-shelf components I picked at my local Home Center:
- Tee-unit: in the plumbing department, PVC fittings section, I chose a 1 1/4" pressure Tee, outer diameter 1 5/8", length 3 1/8" - this is a "straight" Tee, not a "sanitary" Tee with collars and directional bias
- Connecting collar: I used a PVC 2" to 1 1/2" slip joint reducer nut. I had to make a few passes with my half round rasp on the edges of the inside hole to get the Tee to slide in snugly. After test fitting, remove the Tee so that parts can be painted separately before assembly. Mask off the part of the Tee that will slide into the collar. Mask off the sides of the collar. Spray the Tee facing unmasked part of the collar with hammerite, and when this is dry, hand paint the area previously masked in black. There is one more operation before you are ready to spray paint the Tee, however.
- EVA & docking hatches - the same "lock-up kit" as for the interior hatch assembly above.
- For the EVA hatch, I took a PVC fitting one schedule smaller than my Tee, one that would just slip inside the Tee, and cut off a 3/8 " section, sliding it into the EVA end of the Tee to a recessed position. This forms a shoulder for the EVA "lockup-kit" hatch, closely mimicking the recessed appearance of this hatch in the Artemis Poster. I glued the shoulder (shown in red) in place with PVC cement as in A. below. Then I spray painted the part of the assembly not masked (green area, illustration B) with Hammerite and when it was dry, I glued the hatch in place, adding a fender washer to the rear of the hatch assembly to help keep it centered on the shoulder.
- For the Docking hatch, attach the lockup kit to an octagon nut plug (threaded or not - this time leave the piece intact and spray paint with hammerite the exposed nut prior to assembly) as above, then glue the plug into one end of the Tee, taking care to align one flat edge of the octagon plug parallel to the Tee
- With the Tee assembled and painted, slide it back into the painted collar, again being careful to line up a flat edge of the collar with the EVA docking port. The finished assembly should look like this.
- When everything is dry, set the moonbase module on its open end, and using epoxy glue, attach the EVA-docking assembly by the collar edge to the end, alligning the flat of the octagon collar with the front edge of the moonbase module. Allow to dry overnight.
Note: this EVA / Docking module complex weighs quite a bit more than the the bread crumb canister used for the moonbase main structure. While the poster artist shows this module as suspended out from the end of moonbase module without any support of its own, this is not realistic. This module will be heavy and will need a foot or two. For your model, this is imperative. What I did was to take the plastic tube out of an empty ball point pen, drill a hole in the bottom of the docking end of the docking module, slid the tube in the opening, and measured the length I needed to reach the ground with the completed moonbase module resting on its delivery rack. I then cut the tube accordingly, spray painted it brass, and put some glue in one end and inserted a furniture tack "foot pad". When everything was dry. I put some glue in the hole in the bottom of the dock module and inserted the tube.
Summary: the more challenging Moonbase Model:[While we designed our model out of commonly available items that anyone with modest craft skills should be able to use to fashion the completed item, we recognize that for some, it will be too much. So we will make the Artemis Moonbase Model available in a kit form, all parts preworked for assembly. We can also ship completed models. The price for parts and the amount of labor you want us to do (and shipping) will be quoted upon inquiry, delivery time 2-4 weeks, depending upon our available free time. -- Inquiries]
The Descent Engine Complex:I chose not to model this unit. It is complex, and its not being there gives one the opportunity to get across another lesson.
While the crew will depart via the space motorcycle (see below), the descent module, its tanks refueled with oxygen processed on site, will be used as an unpiloted tanker to carry extra LUNOX (lunar liquid oxygen) up to orbit, perhaps to the L1 Gateway, or even to low Earth Orbit to refuel craft bound for the Moon. This cuts the cost of resupply and expansion missions. We won't be able to produce hydrogen right away, but if the engines are so designed, we could "refine" pure iron fines from the moondust and burn this with lunar oxygen. Thus by not modeling the Descent Engine Complex, you are able to talk about the first steps towards use of onsite resources and towards lunar industrialization and the seeds of an Earth-Moon economy.
The "Space Motorcycle" Crew Ascent Vehicle:I had expected this vehicle to be difficult to model from off-the-shelf components adapted to my purpose. But as this unique vehicle is absolutely the single most cardinal and crucial component of the Artemis Moonbase mission plan, it is something worth explaining to curious visitors to the Artemis Moonbase display.
The Apollo crews arrived on the Moon, camped on the Moon, and left the Moon in one and the same cabin. By finding a Spartan way to return crews to a rendezvous vehicle in lunar orbit, the "cabin" can not only be made larger, but it can be left on the Moon as the first permanent habitable structure. In effect the weight savings by not having a pressurized ascent cabin, along with the weight savings in fuel necessary to lift the minimal vehicle, are traded in on a large and spacious cabin that can be left on the Moon permanently.
Thus we must model this remarkable open-vacuum craft so that we can talk about these points. As a plus, this "rough frontier, space cowboy" piece of equipment is exciting in itself and stirs those with the right stuff to want to join our effort.
We chose an "easy enough, good enough" way to represent this all important craft. It has these simple components:
- a wall mounted door stopper - this will serve as the principal structure of the craft
- a large size plastic wire nut (red one)- this will serve as the rocket engine "bell"
- a length of plastic pearls on a string (6 or 8 depending on size) - pained in two alternating colors, these will be the fuel and oxidizer tanks
- couches cut from foam core and painted
Now as an editor, I have often found that when I try to illustrate an idea, I discover lots of angles I hadn't considered. This often leads to a minor, or even major redesign. The Space motorcycle ascent vehicle is always shown perched on the rack it arrived on, ready to take off. But as I decided not to model the descent engine complex, I had to support the space motorcycle somehow. It then occurred to me that the critter needed its own set of legs. With legs it could be used as a suborbital hopper as well. Without legs, it could ascend to a rendezvous in orbit with an arriving vehicle, and hitchhike a ride back down to the surface, which, legless, it could not land upon by itself. And that seems absurd. The exercise of modeling turns up things that do not necessarily show up on drawing board studies or even in artwork. Witness also, the need for the EVA / docking module to have its own support leg or legs, as noted above.
Another thing I noted is that the cycle riders had limited field of view. With no air resistance to be concerned about, there is no reason not to provide a hemispheric mirror, the kind you see in department stores, that would allow them to scan the moonscape horizons they were departing from, or, in descent mode, rapidly approaching. Thus we have:
As an alternative, order the 2 ascent vehicle postcards from Lunar Traders, and display them together or singly in vertical position off to one side of your diorama. These postcards, by Vik Olliver, illustrate the space motorcycle in takeoff and at rendezvous.
Photos - we will post pictures of the storyboard and diorama, taken 11|12|02, and post the link on this page as soon as they have been developed to disk. [The space motorcyle was only partially finished in these photos]
If you have additional ideas of how to model the Artemis Moonbase and its attendant equipment from off-the-shelf thingamajigs, please share them with us.